Acorn Passes Torch to Mexican Concept, Bellota, In Three Month Turnaround

Diamonds are made under pressure.

 In the three months since Acorn’s closure – and the three weeks since acquiring executive chef, Manny Barella – the plane that became Bellota was built in the air by the city’s infamous restauranteurs: Bryan Dayton, Steve Redzikowski, and Bill Espiricueta. And to put it lightly, the plane cruises. The Mexican concept gives a nod to its ancestry, while moving forward in a completely new direction. Bellota is cool without being cold; unique without being exclusive; approachable without being intimidating. 

Griddled Panela Cheese

Like most budding relationships in times of COVID, this love story began with a DM on a Sunday. Espiricueta reached out to Barella, and by Tuesday they were sharing bottles of mezcal ideating menus for Bellota. Barella, who grew up in Monterrey, Mexico, said he’s always had a Mexican menu in his mind – “I’m constantly updating my notes on my phone for menu ideas.” After stints at Michelin starred restaurants, a year at Frasca, and most recently the sous-chef at Uchi, Manny Barella brings memories of street fairs, old flames, and his mother’s recipes to life in Bellota’s kitchen. As his first head chef role, Espricueta calls their relationship a mentorship, noting that Barella champions the menu with “a passion that exceeds all with a ferocity for the personal aspect of food.” 

Shrimp Taco

Both Barella and Espiricueta understand there are no second chances when it comes to opening a restaurant in these times. Luckily, the entire team at Bellota is evolving and adapting daily. Espiricueta says, “We’ve all learned to drop our egos.” No easy feat for chefs, but Barella creates such an environment that everyone gets a say. “I don’t care if it’s the host or whoever, I want feedback from anyone.” If only there were feedback to give..

Chile Relleno

The menu at Bellota is blindingly delicious; it’s elevated and refined, yet resembles comfort food at the core. Barella has a passion for consistent authenticity in his food, whether it be removing tomatoes from his guacamole as tomatoes are from California, discovering ‘round-about’ ways to get chiles from Oaxaca, or honoring one of the most respected and traditional sauces, mole.

Pollo en Mole Negro

Behind every dish is a story from Barella and subtleties from Espiricueta. Both pulling from their Mexican backgrounds, the menu veers from Denver’s typical taco joints to say the least. Unique dishes such as esquites — a mixture of white corn, crema, lime, charred tortilla aioli, and cotija cheese cooked like risotto— or griddled penal cheese — a plank of cheese with salsa macha, peanut, sesame, white onion, cilantro and lime — litter the menu. 

Esquites

Equally as comparable to the food menu, is the spirit and drink list. Featuring agave centric spirits, Bellota’s cocktails range from house margaritas to frozen rum-chatas. The Mexican City Martini, a crisp drink adorned with a cucumber slice atop, combines rosa tequila (tequila aged in red wine barrels), trakal, chareau aloe liquer and lavender bitter.

Bellota is the restaurant Denver has been craving. Elevated and authentic Mexican food merge with lingering sophistication that radiates from the walls of the revered Acorn. 

All images provided by Bellota

 Editor’s Note: I have been back three times since my initial visit, and if you don’t get the fried quesadilla you are wrong.